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Process


Easy Steps to create a ceramic hand sculpture

(An introduction to Hand Building in clay)

Hand building in clay is a wonderful route to express your self. In the next few paragraphs I would like to introduce you to the creation of a hand-built clay sculpture. Before I start with my step to step instructions, I would like to introduce you to some basic terms in ceramics:

In the art of ceramics we use different terms to describe the clay, in its different stages:

Leather hard:

The clay has lost a lot of moist, is not so plastic, but still good for trimming, carving and attaching.

Bone-dry:

The clay has no moist (green-ware stage).

Green-ware:

The clay is dry and not fired.

Bisqueware:

The clay piece was fired in the kiln.

Glazedware:

A fired piece covered with glass color called glaze.

The major approaches to hand building

The coil -

Clay is rolled into long coils which are joined and circled round and round to build a form. To make coils, roll out balls of clay on slightly damp board, working with both hands from the center outward.

Slab -

A ball or a chunk of clay rolled out to an even thickness with a large dowel or rolling pin.

Emptying –

sculpture is made of a chunk of clay, and at the stage when only the final refinements are left, and the
piece is leather hard, it is hollowed.


For my sculptures I mainly use the empting method. It allows me to push and pull the clay while modeling it.

Tools

The tools I generally use are, first of all, my hands, for modeling, shaping, and smoothing clay. You also might want
to purchase Wood clay modeling tools, Trimming tools, a sponge and a piece of wood for a working surface.
You don’t have to go shopping right away, Kitchen utilities might work.

And now for the steps process

Step 1
I take a chunk of clay and start banging it and shaping into the general shape of what I would like it to look like.

A bulk of clay is touched, pushed and smoothened into a defined shape

 

Modeling tools

Then I start modelling and creating the figure. I mostly pose myself for my sculptures.

Step 2
When I have the figure ready but not yet refined (the clay mustn’t be too soft and I let it rest, covered, at least one day), I put it on a foam and start hollowing it from the bottom, the base. The sculpture is hollowed out using various loop tools.


Carving tools


If necessary I would use a wire to cut some peaces of the sculpture
to make sure I reach all areas for carving out all extra clay. This
process is extremely important so that the sculpture won’t crack or
break while firing. In this demonstration I have chosen to open up a
hole in the figure’s rights shoulder. The walls of the sculpture should
be around ½ an inch

Step 3
When done carving, I score the edges of the hole I have created in the figure and apply Slip, which is clay and water mixed. It is important not to create air pockets that will be sealed up when the piece is reassembled. I then work the seam inside as far as I can and outside using a wood sculpting tool and my fingers. I add fresh clay to conceal the patch.

Step 4
Now it is time to work on the final refinements of the sculpture.

A wood modeling tool is used to refine small details in the sculpture.

 

Step 5
The sculpture is now ready for drying and firing.

Step 6
After firing to Bisque, I apply underglazes and stains to achieve specific effects and emphasis textures.


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